CALL FOR PAPERS 2020-09-30T12:55:12+00:00




Call for papers

While the concept of innovation seems to be very much associated with the present, the legacy of the past transmits knowledge, often thousands of years old. Fashion, in particular, connects and promotes the interaction of individual, social, economic and political values that bind us, sometimes provoking ruptures with the past, expressing the present and projecting the future. In fact, past, present and future values all relate to and interact with each other through Fashion. And the legacy for the future, in the process of being built now, encourages us to preserve knowledge and techniques from the past, defending not only the present, but also the future of human life through a model of sustainable economic and social development. This is the reflection that we propose for the edition of the Global Fashion Conference 2020.

Innovation in Fashion creates new products, new services and profoundly changes ways of being. How does innovation build on a heritage so as to alter the present and envisage the future? How do traditional knowledge and techniques connect – that are culturally rooted in given regions and locations – with the phenomenon of globalised production and the globalisation of information about Fashion, which often seems to create a cultural hegemony, where technology plays a crucial role? How are ancestral processes renewed, encouraging us to produce and consume more responsibly? How are functional and technical textiles created that accompany the major socio-demographic revolutions in an aging Europe, North America and Japan, in China and in India who are awakening and asserting their roles as major future players, in Brazil where youth dominates and in Africa where four out of every five inhabitants are minors?

What is the Fashion sector? What role does it play? Does it consume resources? Pollute? Generate wealth? Move us and make us dream? Tell stories of individuals, about past societies, about the present time, of the future that is in our hands…?

We invite researchers from academia, industry and professionals from the world of Fashion to take part in the GFC2020, reflecting on past, present and future innovations. The conference is a space dedicated to the sharing and exchange of knowledge and experiences of a multi- disciplinary nature and, for this reason, all contributions from the scientific community and from industry, deriving from different branches of knowledge and perspectives are welcome.

All contributions should be original works that have not been previously presented or published. Proposals may take the form of presentations or works in progress, scientific articles, innovative projects created by companies or business incubators, photographic or video work, as well as pedagogic or demonstration workshops. For each of these types of participation, the appropriate template to be used may be found below, on this site.

The languages used in the conference are French and English. Regarding publication in the Proceedings, the use of English is recommended so as to allow for wider dissemination of the work presented.

The first proposal to be presented consists of a structured Abstract or storyboard (for photographic or video works) with a clearly identifiable theme for the project/title, scientific references to previous studies, the developed research proposal and results achieved/conclusions.

Works in progress which already include preliminary results may be submitted. The number of words and images defined should be indicated on each of the specific templates – available on this website – according to the type of work to be presented, so that submissions can be accepted for review.

All submissions should be made in Word format (enabling removal of Author identification, thus allowing double blind review) to the e-mail:


Proposals must be related to one or more of the four themes mentioned below:

1. History, narrative and knowledge

– Luxury fashion and brand heritage
– Brand history and storytelling
– Senses and fashion culture: perfumes and beauty
– Fashion innovation stories: pioneers, followers, challengers
– The History and Renewal of Fashions
– The renewal and updating of fashion legacies (women’s heritage, herstory, heritage studies) – Underestimated knowledge in fashion
– Forgotten Inheritances and Invisible Fashions
– “Retro” fashion: markets, consumers, characteristics
– Vintage Fashion: markets, consumers, characteristics
– Upcycling – new pro-sustainability uses

2. Inheritance and power

– The sumptuary laws
– The democratisation of fashion and consumer power
– The power to influence: style creation
– Tradition in clothing, social and cultural appropriation and (re)appropriation – Intellectual Property in Fashion
– Brand Equity
– Capital in Fashion: Fundraising, Accelerators, Private Equity, Strategic and Financial Groups
– The deceleration of Fashion: made-for-order fashion, slow-fashion, and handcrafted fashion – The Made in France phenomenon/the Made in COE (Country-of-origin effect)
– Fashion Counterfeiting: origins and effects. Comparative studies
– The power of the European fashion system in a globalised world
– Agenda 21, the UN Fashion Charter and the power to influence a more sustainable Fashion

3. Techniques, technologies and know-how

– Past techniques and their renewal in the Fashion sector
– Luxury products and technological innovations
– Complex know-how and its marketing: new B2B production and distribution technologies – Innovative design and industrial techniques
– Local and/or regional textile technique traditions revisited – aesthetics and sustainability
– Métiers d’ Art et de Mode. Local and comparative studies.
– New materials, new functions and new consumers
– Technology at the service of social, economic and environmental sustainability – Circular economics: from theory to practice.

4. Communication and transmission

– The transmission of Fashion’s immaterial legacies
– New technologies and the transmission of traditions
– The Communication and mediatisation of major and minor fashions
– Legacies of manual knowledge and oral archives
– The transmission of fashion legacies through institutions (museums, foundations) – The shaping and pedagogy of traditions
– The dissemination of ethical values in the world of Fashion
– CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) and the shaping of public opinion – Communities and Brand Love
– Human rights and environmental movement organisations and demonstrations – their contribution to responsible production and consumption.
– Communication on sustainability: accountability.

Other proposals on each and every one of these four topics are very much welcomed.

Ana Roncha

The Fashion Business School – London College of Fashion – UAL – London – UK

Aurélie Mossée

Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs, PSL University – Paris – France

Carlo Belfanti

Universitá degli Studi di Brescia – Italy

Claire Roederer

EM Strasbourg Business School – France

Cláudio Magalhães

PUC Rio de Janeiro – Brazil

Damien Delille

Univ. Lyon 2 – Lyon – France

David Zajtman

IFM Institut Français de La Mode – Paris – France

Dominique Jacomet

IFM – Institut Français de la Mode – Paris – France

Eleni Mouratidou

Université Sorbonne Paris Nord – IUT de Bobigny / LabSic. – France

Esclarmonde Monteil

Musée des Tissus de Lyon – Lyon – France

Florence Charpigny

CNRS/LARHRA, Lyon – France

Henrietta Onwuegbuzie

Lagos Business School, Pan-Atlantic University. Lagos – Nigeria

Isabel Cantista

Univ. Lusiada do Porto, Portugal

Isabelle Hare

Univ. Lyon 2 – France

Lynda Grose

California College of the Arts – USA

Lola Dopico

University of Vigo – Spain

Manuel José Santos Silva

UBI – Universidade da Beira Interior- Covilhã – Portugal

Marco Pedroni

UNICATT Milan – Italy

Maria do Carmo Rainho

National Archive – Rio de Janeiro – Brazil

Nick Rees Roberts

UFR Arts & Médias – Université Sorbonne Nouvelle – Paris 3 – France

Patsy Perry

Manchester Metropolitan University, UK

Rita Salvado

Textile Engineering/ University Museum of Wool Textiles– UBI – Covilhã – Portugal

Stéphanie Kunert

Univ. Lyon 2 – France

Su-Lee Tsai

College of Fashion & Textiles – Fu Jen Catholic University – Taiwan

Teresa Sádaba

ISEM Fashion Business School – Univ. Navarra – Spain

Timo Rissanen

University of Technology Sydney (UTS) – Australia

Valérie Jeanne-Perrier

Universités en Sciences de l’information et de la communication, CELSA-Paris Sorbonne / GRIPIC – Paris – France

Veronica Manlow

Brooklyn Colllege of the City University of New York

Yoko Takagi

Bunka Gakuen University – Tokyo – Japan

Isabel Cantista

Universidade Lusíada – Porto – Portugal

Stéphanie Kunert

Université de Lyon 2 – Lyon – France

Isabelle Hare

Université de Lyon 2 – Lyon – France

Damien Delille

Université de Lyon 2 – Lyon – France



The Global Fashion Conference has decided to award two prizes as from the 2020 edition. One of these is intended to acknowledge and reward the best research paper or project in the area of sustainable fashion, while the other prize seeks to acknowledge and reward the best research paper or project in the area of innovation in luxury and fashion. A special mention to a research made in one of these topics or any other topic may also be granted by the jury.

In each edition, an independent jury comprised of representatives from Academia, Industry, NGDOs and Fashion Communication will decide on the assignment of these prizes.

Simone Guercini

Full professor of marketing at the University of Florence, Italy.

He had a PhD in Economics from Scuola Sant’Anna of Advanced Studies, Pisa, and was visiting doctoral student at the University of Sussex at Brighton. In recent years, he did research and gave invited talks in prestigious universities and research institute worldwide, including Max Planck Institute for Human Development in Berlin, Georgia State University in Atlanta, and Indiana University at Bloomington. He has been visiting professor at Grenoble École de Management and ISEM – Universidad de Navarra.

His current research interests lie in the areas of business marketing, international business and entrepreneurship with a specific focus on fashion business as empirical context. He published some books and more than seventy journal articles on academic journals including Industrial Marketing Management, Journal of Business Research, International Business Review, Global Strategy Journal, International Marketing Review, Journal of Business and Industrial Marketing, Journal of Cleaner Production, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management.

Simone Guercini will be presiding the jury for the GFC Best Research Awards at the 2020 edition.

Robert van der Kerkhof

Member of the Management Board LENZING AG and Chief Commercial Officer.

During his professional career Robert has achieved a sound knowledge on sustainability, supply chain management and marketing & sales. In his own words: “creating strategic partnerships for systemic change in the global fiber industry as Member of the Management Board as Chief Commercial Officer of the Lenzing Group, a leading company in the global man-made cellulosic fiber industry. Responsible for Sustainability, Supply Chain, Sales and Marketing, we are making a significant positive change impact globally and beyond the fiber industry.”

Robert Van De Kerkhof is CCO at Lenzing AG since May 2014, he has more than 25 years of experience in the fiber industry in the fields of development, production, financing and later on marketing and sales and has worked for Fokker Aircraft, Ten Cate, DuPont and INVISTA.
Robert Van de Kerkhof has graduated in BsC Science in Haarlem Business School, Netherlands and has post-graduate studies by International Institute for Management Development (IMD Business School), at Lausanne, Switzerland.

Margarida Cardoso

Margarida Cardoso is a journalist who has been covering news in Portugal and abroad on economics and business issues, with a particular interest in the industries which have also a strong presence in the North of Portugal such as Fashion: textiles, apparel, shoes and leather goods, wines, cork, furniture and metal manufacturing.

She has studied Media and Communication at the Universidade Nova de Lisboa, she has made post-graduate studies in Media Communication and Finance. With the support of the Luso-American Foundation she has developed na internship in California, at the San Francisco Chronicle newspaper. She worked at the News Agency Lusa and from 1999 in the media group Impresa, writing in the weekly newspaper Expresso and in the magazines Exame and Visão on contents related to economics and business.

The prize will consist of the attribution of an opportunity to publish in a journal with a high impact factor, or a book sponsored by the Global Fashion Conference with the authors maintaining all rights over the text. The prizes will be awarded at a public ceremony disseminated in the international press. Additional benefits for Authors may be added.


16th June 2020

Submission of proposals on appropriate templates to:

1st May – 30th June 2020

Review by members of the Scientific Committee and submission of comments and decisions on acceptance of work or not to Authors.

16th June – 7th October 2020

Online registration opens: 16th June 2020
Early fee: June and July
Late fee: August, September and first week of October
Online registration deadline (including registration fee payment): 5 October

21 and 22 October

Seventh edition of Global Fashion Conference – Université de la Mode – Lyon, France.

The conference will take place at the Université de la Mode – Lyon 2 – being held live, or streamed according to legal and safety measures adopted internationally on the dates set.

23 October

Cultural Programme and Fashion Business Programme.

The Cultural Programme and the Fashion Business Programme will take place in several locations in the region of Lyon, being held live, or streamed according to legal and safety measures adopted internationally on the scheduled date.
The Cultural Programme will be developed in collaboration with the Musée des Tissus, à Lyon.

31st July – 30th September

Preparation of definitive programme and release of provisional programme and sessions to all those registered.

Deadline for submission and reception of final communication: full paper (short or long), photos or videos: 5 October